ソムリエ・ワインエキスパート試験に絶対に合格したいアナタへ！

How The Sweet Wine of Bordeaux Is Made

以上

2021-02-07

【仏ボ地方 : 貴腐ワイン】動画から深く学ぶ歴史 / 品種 / 気象条件 / 効率など

ソムリエ・ワインエキスパート試験 fr.フランス fr_bo.ボルドー z_zzt.雑学

f:id:ttrd80:20210207162842p:plain

今回も動画から深掘りしていきましょう。

[所要時間 : ５分５９秒]

以下、ポイント / キーワードを拾っていきます。

Viticulture and wine making in Bordeaux dates back thousands of years to the Roman times

However, it wasn't until the 1600s that sweet wines became popular within the region

With the arrival of the Dutch in the early 17th century

demands shifted within Bordeaux

Moving away from lighter red wines towards more structured medium bodied Reds as well as sweet white wines

オランダの影響

・オランダ＝正式な国名"ネーデルランド"＝「低い土地」の意

→ 名物の「風車」は実は干拓用＝得技 → ボルドーの干拓・発展に寄与

(前回のラフィットの話とも繋がりますね。)

・ハプスブルグ家※(オーストリア・ハンガリー付近)との繋がり

→貴腐の元祖ハンガリーから伝わった？

・ボルドーで貴腐ワイン造りがはじまる前から甘口の白オシ(以前はシロップみたいなのを混ぜてたかも...)

【動画】オランダの歴史をゆっくり解説【棒人間の世界史・国解説シリーズ】

【動画】【後編】オランダの歴史をゆっくり解説【棒人間の世界史・国解説シリーズ】

ボルドー、ワインの歴史その８ (まとめ) | ろくでなしチャンのブログ

メドックの変遷１地勢と干拓 | ろくでなしチャンのブログ

Sauternes Wine — History & Sweetness - Betty's Wine Musings

Noble rot - Wikipedia

(地図にすると↓の感じ)

f:id:ttrd80:20210207150348p:plain

※ハプスブルグ家はスペインとも繋がっていて、仏ジュラ地方のヴァン・ジョーヌ(黄ワイン)は同じ産膜酵母を使うシェリーが伝播したともいわれています。

Although Bordeaux today is still dominated by red grape varieties the areas of Sauternes

And Barsac are identified as being prime locations for white wine production and some of the world's greatest sweet wines are produced here

What grape series here? In our region we have three types of grapes

Semillon which is the prominent grape that originated in sit down probably around the 4th century

It brings a lot of nectars a lot of structure to the wine. Then you complement it with the

Sauvignon Blanc, which we consider a contributor of citrus characteristics

and the third grape that we have is Muscadelle

It's not prominent. It's very it's it's very thin-skinned grape

So it's very susceptible to disease and you need to have very good clay to have very good Muscadelle

So today most people have mostly Semillon

Complemented with a bitter Sauvignon Blanc and some places have a bit of Muscadelle

３種類のブドウ品種 - 役割

・セミヨン＝骨格として (主体となる品種)

・ソーヴィニョン・ブラン＝シトラスのような爽やかさ (補助品種)

・ミュスカデル※＝華やかさ (補助品種)

Muscadelle - Wikipedia

Muscadelle Wine - wine-searcher

※似た名前の「ミュスカデ」とは異なるので注意

These grapes are grown all around the world. However, very few places have the required climatic conditions to produce sweet wines of this style

not to be confused with fortified wines such as sherry or port the sweet wines of Sauterne and Barsac undergo a

Fascinating natural process known as noble rot

Instigated by a fungus called botrytis cinerea noble rot can only occur under highly precise conditions

・貴腐菌「ボトリティス・シネリア」の語源

Greek for “grapes,” and Latin for “cinder,” or ashes. ("ブドウの灰"菌って意味)

Sauternes Wine — History & Sweetness - Betty's Wine Musings

we are in a specific microclimate that encourages the proliferation of botrytis and

the

Microclimate alternates between these humid mornings and these dry sunny afternoons

that allows the evaporation of water and the concentration of sugar

So more technically botrytis attacks grapes and makes little holes in the skin

And in the afternoon the water is going to evaporate through these holes

and you're going to concentrate your sugar

Basically, we have a lot of Indian summers in this region

so this going back and forth between these misty humid mornings, and these sunny afternoons is a

Prerequisite to controlling the botrytis to evolve into what we call noble rot. So

貴腐ワインになるための気象条件

・湿気のある午前＆乾燥した午後

→糖分が集中

→菌がブドウに穴をあける → (その穴から...)午後にブドウの水分が蒸発

・小春日和の穏やかな夏

≒風が少なく霧が滞留できる

Botrytis. What flavours is it going to give the wine?

So in addition to helping us concentrate the grape and also produce glycerol, which gives wines texture

Botrytis gives us aromas. It's very hard to explain the characteristics of these aromas

It's very personal some people associate it in a very young wine to some kind of

Grapefruit characteristic the zestiness. And older wines I think it's easier to spot it as a spicy characteristics

貴腐菌の働き

・ワインに骨格を与えるグリセロールを生成

・独特のアロマをもたらす

Sauternes and Barsac now lead the way for high-end sweet wine production around the world

However, the history of this particular winemaking practice is somewhat contested

There's a lot of different stories that people tell about how we came to make sweet wine

There's the the great legend of a Chateau where the owner went hunting and told everybody

please wait till I get back

And then when he got back there was all this fungus and you know often they had the idea of making sweet wines

there's also the story of

the Dutch that were very present in Bordeaux because they were building the

drainage system up in the Merdoc and they had a love and

A knowledge of botrytis to them German area in Austria, so they brought that knowledge to Bordeaux

and helped us develop

The techniques to turn these botrytis grapes into sweet wines

So it's probably a little bit of both a happy accident

ボルドーの貴腐ワインの起源

領主が狩りから帰ってきたらブドウに菌が付いてたって伝説

オランダ人による伝播(前述)

ロスチャイルド家とワイン - Wikipedia

But also the right people at the right place with the knowledge to help us develop

Wine making in the appellation Sauternes in Barsac is often a huge challenge

because of the unique conditions required the noble rot to occur

Not enough moisture and the grapes will dry out before the onset of fungus

Too much moisture and the fungus will turn to gray rot

a negative result that effects any different parts destroying their fruit

Well, everything links back to botrytis and unfortunately but rises an anarchist, so it doesn't attack a bunch of berry all in one go

It's gonna start a little bit here a little bit there

And as a result, when we hand harvest we have to go and look at each bunch and pick the berries that are ready

So in a vineyard, you're going to go through in our in our case

I could say we go through six to eight times

during a period of six to eight weeks. Wow. each person looking at a vine and

Picking the fruit that's reached the right level of concentration.

栽培・収獲のタイミングを見極める難しさ

湿気が足りなくても、菌がつくまでに枯れる

湿気が多過ぎても、腐り過ぎる

So here you're in a first growth

So we're looking for twenty one - twenty two degrees of potential alcohol. So it's very concentrated fruit

We're picking those berry by berry

We're gonna put these in these little baskets, the baskets goes into a second selection process where someone from our team

Will go through and take anything out. That's not qualitative

And then the fruit goes into the cellar and we're gonna start pressing. That's so meticulous. It's a lot of work

I presume this is gonna impact the yield and then the final cost of the wine because that's a lot of

Work already just for a harvest

So in our region, we're making about one glass of wine per vine

Relatively speaking. If you're taking a red producer of the same quality you're making an entire bottle

Wow, that's a really really good comparison. So one vine will give me one glass. That's correct

It's a little to work for a glass of wine

It's passion its devotion. It's a lot of hard work all year long to ensure that the fruit is healthy at the time of harvest.

できあがるワインの量

１本のブドウの樹から...

貴腐ワイン → グラス１杯分しかできない!!

通常の赤ワイン → ボトル１本分

・

ミュスカデルを調べているとマデリゼーションって言葉を発見。ポルトガルのマデイラ酒よろしく "熱処理する" ってニュアンスなんだけど。そういやカンテイロとかエストゥーファって言葉がありますね。

Maderisation - Wikipedia

以上

2021-02-06

【銘柄・逸話】動画を見て仏ボルドーの格付け/シャトーに愛着を持とう!!

ソムリエ・ワインエキスパート試験 fr.フランス fr_bo.ボルドー fr_bo_m.メドックの格付 z_zzt.雑学

f:id:ttrd80:20210206012905p:plain

今回も動画で楽しく学んでいきましょう。

通常の試験的な知識は前提として記憶のフックや愛着につながるかも。メジャーどころや逸話をまとめてくれてるのが有難い↓

The Wine Classification Of Bordeaux

以下、言及されていた評価の高いシャトーなどをオススメ記事を交えてご紹介します。

・シャトー・パルメ (メドック - ３級 - マルゴー)

漫画「神の雫」でモナリザに例えられてましたね。

www.hardfood.com

kaminoshizuku.com

・シャトー・ポンテカネ (メドック - ５級 - ポイヤック)

↓ろくでなしチャンの解説が素晴らしい!! ってか金あるなー。スゲー。

名称 = ジャン・フランソワ・ポンテ(法律家) + カネ (地名)

・シャトー・ペトリュス (ポムロール - ※格付け外)

セカンドラインのワインは作らない。シャトー・ル・パン（英語版）とともにポムロールを代表する二大高級ワインとして、現在も一貫して、世界で最も高額なワインとして知られ...

ja.wikipedia.org

・シャトー・ルパン (ポムロール - ※格付け外)

名称は畑にあった松に由来。レビューに驚愕。。。

・シャトー・セルタン・ド・メイ (ポムロール - ※格付け外)

...ポムロルのスター・シャトーの一角として数えられる...

セルタン(＝地名 or ｢砂漠｣の意 )+ メイ(＝前所有者名)。

・シャトー・ラフルール (ポムロール - ※格付け外)

...ペトリュスに常に迫り、時にはそれを凌ぐことのできる唯一のポムロル最高峰シャトー...

...ペトリュス(２万５千本から３万本)、ルパン(７千本)より稀少。アロマはペトリュス以上、お値段は、ときどきペトリュスと同等。パーカーちゃん褒めまくり、高得点出しまくりの印象...

・シャトー・ムートン・ロートシルト (メドック - １級 - ポイヤック)

↑動画の内容＋ムートン・カデって「ちびムートン」って意味だったのね。。。ここは↓オジサンを要チェック。

波乱万丈な人生。一読の価値あり。

ja.wikipedia.org

・シャトー・カントメルル (メドック - ５級 - オー・メドック)

ムートンの話は有名として、このカントメルルのご婦人がネジ込んだって話も気合入ってて面白い。この１６０年ほどの歴史で↑２回しか変わっていないという事実www (...当時のカントメルルが、ボルドーのクルティエを通さず直接オランダと取引していたため、その販売価格をクルティエ達が知らなかったため...)

https://i.pinimg.com/564x/88/af/c2/88afc211fe9e90b10f4f15bc2d38553e.jpg

(参考)

全シャトー一覧あり

en.wikipedia.org

以上

2021-02-04

【発見】仏ボルドー地方概要 / 歴史 / 新たに承認された品種(2019年) ... など

ソムリエ・ワインエキスパート試験 fr.フランス fr_bo.ボルドー

f:id:ttrd80:20210204123520p:plain

自己満で申し訳ないですが、以下動画・wikiなどを見て筆者が新たに発見したコトをまとめておきます。

トリビアや豆知識になれば幸いです。最近の試験はマニアックな出題もありますので出たりして。。。

(所要時間：５分１１秒)

The Basics Of The Bordeaux Wine Region

・ボルドー全体の畑の面積＝１２万ヘクタール

⇔ 東京都の面積の約半分＝２１万ヘクタール

・クラレット = ボルドーの赤の意

→ちなみに英国とオーストラリアでは血の俗語

→2011年11月、Union desMaisonsdeNegocedeBordeaux の社長は「軽くてフルーティーで飲みやすい、元のクラレットと同じスタイルのワイン」にクラレット・ド・ボルドーという用語を使用する意向を発表。

・ソーヴィニョン・グリ

https://www.wine-searcher.com/grape-1579-sauvignon-gris

ソーヴィニヨングリはソーヴィニョン・ブランのピンク色の突然変異です※。おそらくボルドー周辺で発生しましたが、チリではかなりいることに気づきました。兄弟のSBよりアロマは弱めだけど味わいは豊かで肉感的だそう。

※同列は Pinot Gris 、Roter Riesling、 Chardonnay Rosé 等

en.wikipedia.org

Red Winemaking in Bordeaux Explained

x:墓 → 〇グラーヴ(砂利の意)

・17世紀、オランダの商人たちはメドックの湿地を排水してブドウの木を植えることができました。

(関連して...)

シャトー・ラフィットロートシルト

“la hite”, which means “hillock”

→小高いところを意味するブランス語「ラ・イット」から「ラフィット」と名づけられた (協会冊子によると「もともと湿地で、小高い丘の上くらいじゃないと立派ななブドウが育てられなかった＝他と比べると質が高かった...」的な説明アリ。)

気温上昇に対抗するために新しいブドウ品種の使用を容認

(黒ブドウ４つ)

・マルスラン

カベルネ・ソーヴィニヨンとグルナッシュの交配品種。晩熟タイプで、遅霜の被害を受けにく、病害にも強い

・トウリガナショナル

ポルトガル原産。長熟成品種で遅霜の被害を受けにくいため、収穫期が遅く病害にも強い

・カステ

フランス南西部（恐らくジロンド県）原産品種。歴史が古いながらも長らく忘れ去られていたボルドー固有品種で、灰色かび病や、ベト病、特にウドンコ病の被害を受けにくい

・アリナルノア

＝タナとカベルネ・ソーヴィニヨンの交配

(白ブドウ３つ)

・アルバリーニョ

天候不順への適応能力を持っており、灰色かび病に強い。スペイン系

・プチマンサン

ピレネー＝アトランティック県原産品種。晩熟タイプで、灰色かび病に対し優れた耐性を持つ。仏南西地方系

・リリオリラ

灰色かび病に強いバロックとシャルドネの交配品種で、花のような香り

ちなみに↑２０１９年より。世相を反映する動きなので注目!!

www.bordeaux-wines.jp

以上

2021-02-03

【解説】ボルドーの赤ワイン造り

ソムリエ・ワインエキスパート試験 z_wg.ワイン概論 fr.フランス fr_bo.ボルドー

f:id:ttrd80:20210203012312p:plain

今回も楽しく動画で学びましょう!!

まずはこちら。あとから要点を復習します。[所要時間 : ８分５０秒]

はっきり言ってポイントだらけでした。以下大事な箇所を赤字にして載せておきます。復習にお使い下さい。

【解説】

Bordeaux, one of the oldest winemaking regions in the world and the

Spiritual home of some of the world's most noble grapes such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon

although Bordeaux produces world-class white and sweet wines

90% of its production is its famed red wines

ボルドーといえばメルローとカベルネソーヴィニョンなどのブレンドの赤。

Unlike Burgundy where wines were usually be made from one variety of grape in Bordeaux The art of blending is a fundamental aspect of the winemaking process

ブルゴーニュが単一品種なのとは対照的。

in fact, wine making in Bordeaux has been developed over thousands of years the Red wine making process begins with harvesting. However, knowing exactly when to harvest is never an easy decision

How do you know when it's the right time to collect the grapes?

Starting journey So in on the right bank you harvest at the end of September beginning of October we start to do

analysis of the berries

収穫をいつするか？って話ですが...

mid-september

So we analyse the pH, the acidity, the weight of the berry all this

We do it on several weeks on every plot of the vineyard

We have four or five analysis

Once the acidity is low and the sugar is quite high

We also taste the berries because even if they analyse say it's ready to pick after

nothing is better than actually to taste and to see if

Especially the skin if it's too thick or not for us It's very exciting. But also

ブドウに含まれる酸(⇔糖度)や重さを分析してですが食べた味で決めるのも大切。

worrying because we want to harvest in very good condition when it's sunny like today and we always scared about the rain so

sometimes you will harvest a bit earlier because

After you will have one week of bad weather with lots of rain

We try as much as possible not to harvest when weather conditions are not good

そう、雨を避けるために早く収穫することも。。。

In Bordeaux harvesting can be done either by hand or by machine

However, the top Chateau will almost always hand harvest for their flagship wines. So in terms of how harvest can affect

Vintage do you cut by hand, do you use machines? How does the harvest process look here?

We do mechanical harvest and hand harvest I would say that generally on all vines because it's more fragile (フラジャイル = 壊れやすい)

We do it by hand and on younger vine we use mechanical harvest with optical tree

both of them are very

Collective now, it's more on the age of the plot of vineyard that we make the difference

看板ワイン = 手摘み ⇔ ブドウの樹が若い = 機械摘み

After harvest, grapes must be sorted to remove any unwanted berries. This process is usually done by hand

However recent advances in technology have introduced mechanical sorting that is incredibly accurate

選果の話ね。

What a sorting mean? How does that look? It means that you take the berries out of the Ruffle(ラッフル・ぐちゃぐちゃになったもの) and on mechanical harvest it's done with a machine and today we have a very precise optical Sorting let's take out the berries

It's new technology and mechanical harvest is not like 20 years ago today. It gives very good result

技術は進歩しているようで。

Once sorted, grapes will be ready to be transferred to vats usually made of stainless steel in

Bordeaux grapes will either be crushed to release their juice or placed in the vat as whole berries, we will always be disturbed first

So the grapes are harvested they're sorted and then what happens? When they are sorted they go into vats either

The berries are crushed

Before it goes into the vats or you put the berries and they are full we do both here both techniques

収穫→選果した後のブドウはいったん、タンクに入れるんだけど。。。

Now when the berries are not crushed before they go in you can find some difference into the wine

The wine will be more powerful more around because the fermentation two alcoholic fermentation

Is done more gently

潰さずに丸ごと入れてた方がよりたくましく＆まろやかに。。。

Once in the vats the unfermented grape juice will begin a process of maceration

Extracting the colour, flavour and tannins from the grape, skins and pips

そう、醸し(＝かもし)で大切なのはブドウの皮と種のタンニンを抽出するコトでしたね。

During maceration alcoholic fermentation occurs, either naturally or through the addition of selected yeasts to the vat

Alcoholic fermentation is the process of yeast consuming the grapes natural sugars. There are three natural byproducts of fermentation

ethanol or alcohol, carbon dioxide and heat

アルコール発酵とは、酵母が糖分をアルコールと二酸化炭素に分解する働き。

whilst in the vat

Winemakers may choose to increase the extraction of colour and tannins by either pumping over the must which is the fermenting juice or cap punching

pushing the grape skins down into the liquid

色と苦みを抽出するために、手で混ぜたり、機械でポンピングしたり。。。

Producers may leave fermented juice with the skins for three to four weeks

Even after alcoholic fermentation has finished to increase tannins and structure in their wines

しつこく皮と一緒に寝かしたり。。。

So someone asked you about tannins, for example

Where do they come from? The tannins come from the pips and the skin

タンニンは種と皮から。

Okay after alcoholic fermentation

The existing juice is removed from the skins and the skins go through a pressing process to release any additional juice

After pressing, the wine is transferred to a new vessel, which may be stainless steel tanks

However for fine wines it will most commonly be transferred to new French oak barrels known as barrique

出来の良いワインはフレンチオークの新樽に入れる(→新樽の強い香味にも負けないから)。バリックって樽の名称・容量(２２５リットル)にも注目。⇔ ブルゴーニュはピエスで２２８リットル

Whilst the process of malolactic fermentation may have already occurred. It will normally take place once in the new vessel

during malolactic fermentation

Microorganisms(マイクロオーガニズムス = 微生物) naturally found in grape juice transformed tart malic(リンゴ酸) acid found in green apples into soft lactic acid(乳酸)

Which is found in milk this process softens the wine and helps to give it a smoother texture

マロラクティック発酵は(乳酸が)ワイン中のリンゴ酸を乳酸に変える→ミルクやヨーグルトっぽいマロやかな味に。

The wine is then left to mature for 18 to 24 months during what is known as elevage

While maturing the wine will go through a racking process roughly every three months where it is transferred to different barrels to remove any remaining

sediment(セディメント = 沈殿物) in the wine and also provide controlled oxygenation

This step is critical to the development of flavours and aromas in a red wine

熟成では樽から樽に移し替えたりして、沈殿物を除去したり酸化のコントロールも。

In Bordeaux producers commonly used two hundred and twenty five litre French oak barrels for maturation

Tiny pores(ポアーズ孔:あな) in the would allow for micro oxygenation

softening the wine and creating a smoother final product

樽は小さな孔から空気を通して酸化をうながし、ワインの味をソフト・スムースに。

In Bordeaux, the art of blending is critical to the success of winemaking

Producers may choose to blend different grape varieties, parcels and styles of vinification

Before elevage, whilst others may do it at the end of elevage

Known as bench blending producers will identify different attributes of each barrel of wine to decide on what their final blend will be

This is an incredibly labour-intensive and intricate process and some wines in Bordeaux may be a blend of over 100 different wines

So speaking about the blending process how many samples of the blends do you make before you select

the final ones?

Depends

depends of the year, but

generally, it lasts three months and

Sometimes it's once a week

Sometimes it's twice a week and it's a time for arguing because you have always with commercial

against

the winemakers so we asked for another blind testing the following days or week and

To see how it evolved because there are ideas on the question. We have ours, you know, it's

complex and very tense

time

ブレンドのウンチクは流しましょう(笑)

Once blended the wine will still be cloudy. So a process of fining may be done to remove unwanted particles. Thus clarifying the wine

fining agents may be natural proteins which in Bordeaux has

Traditionally been egg whites though synthetic products can also be used most commonly in vegan wines

清澄に卵白を使うって話。余った卵黄でお菓子のカヌレを作ったり。。。

the final step of the process is

Filtration and bottling with the wines being transferred from tank to bottle and the final cork being added

Bottles are then labeled and ready for sale

さらに濾過(ろか)・瓶詰め・コルク打ち。

The best red wines of Bordeaux are a masterful blend and no two years are the same

So wine makers must react to each vintages specific conditions

These basic steps to winemaking in Bordeaux will vary between producers depending on their philosophy and winemaking style

winemakers have to make a multitude of decisions along the way to capture the essence of the vintage and their

signature in each and every bottle

おつかれさまでした。

(↓画像はクリックしてリンク＝拡大できます。)

https://venngage-wordpress-gallery.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/2016/08/How-is-Red-Wine-Made.png

以上

2021-02-01

【フランス概論】動画を見てモザイクを埋めよう!! + OB/OG向け難問

ソムリエ・ワインエキスパート試験 fr.フランス

今回は海外の学習動画に馴れながら楽しく勉強しましょう☆彡

まず問題を出しておきます。

分かりそうな方は、まず何も見ないで考えてみて下さい。(プリントアウトしてみても便利かも。)

f:id:ttrd80:20210201222500p:plain

↓↓↓

次に動画をみましょう。

[所要時間約１２分]

Getting Started With French Wine | Wine Folly

↓↓↓

というところで正解です。地方名は必須。あと多少の特徴・ブドウ品種・地名はおさえておきたいところ。

f:id:ttrd80:20210201222522p:plain

(ご参考)

The following is a list of French wines that are entitled to use the designation Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) on their label. There are currently over 300 appellations (300以上)

List of Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée wines - Wikipedia

est un vin blanc français produit dans le vignoble d'Alsace essentiellement à partir des cépages pinot blanc B et auxerrois B4. (ピノ・ブラン、オーセロワなどのブレンド)

Pinot d'Alsace — Wikipédia

...昔のアルザスの高貴品種の組み合わせを『ジョンティ』と呼んでいた伝統...

https://sake.biccamera.com/bs/item/4101494/

A.O.C.アルザスで認められているラベル表記で、ぶどう品種をアサンブラージュ(混醸)したときに付記することができ...一定の高品質な品種を使用しているという意味で「高貴な」を意味する「エーデル（Edel）」が付記され...

エーデルツヴィッカーとは？ -Edelzwicker｜カーヴ（Cave） -ワインがもっと楽しくなる！日本最大級のワインのレビューサイト

イタリアでも登場するベルメンティーノ!!